Method of cutting garments.



J. W. BABB.

METHOD OF CUTTING GARMENTS,

APPLICATION mso AM. I. 1918.

1,274,364. Patented Aug. 6, 1918.

7' 7 fan 71,2, 10

JOHN W. BABB, OF CHICAGO; ILLINOIS.

METHOD OF CUTTING GARMENTS.

Application filed April 1. 1918.

To all u not may concern Be it. 'nowu that I. Joux ll". linnn. :tettizenof (:mada, residing at Chicago. cougity of ((iok. State of Illinois.l1areiuvented a certain new and useful Method of..: t3.tmg

Garments. of which the follou'iu" is s )(Clficatiou.

My invention relates to suits of the kind worn by business men andothers. commonly known as sack suits. and imlnutactured from woolen andother materials. It has been the practice heretofore in making suits ofthis kind to use a certain length of cloth for the coat, vest andtrousers of a suit. One object of the present invention is to obtainfrom this same length of cloth a suit and an extra pair of trousers,thereby eeonomizing material. This is accomplished Within the limits ofcertain sizes by slightly modifying the usual pattern parts in certainparticulars and placing the same upon the length of cloth in aparticular order. In general the modification of the usual patternconsists in slightly shifting certain seams in thevoat and trousers andin replacing the usual. vest t'routs hy fronts composed of two sectionseach. The novel :u'raz ement of the pattern parts upon the cioth is bestshown by the drawing.

For a Fuller understanding of the invention reference should be had notonly to said drawing but also to the following detailed description. Thescope of the invention is set forth in the appended claims.

In said. drawing Figure 1 is a diagram illustratiuga usual patternlength of doubled cloth with one arrangement of patterns thereon. thewhole illustrating )l'iOI art practice; Fig. 2 illustrates a vest rontpattern of prior art design, showing particularly a common way ofcutting Vs therein;

Fig. 3. illustrates a vest front cut. into two sections by cutting inthe general direction of the Vs of Fig. 2 to the point of intersection;Fig. 4 illustrates a. vest back; Fig. 5 is a diagram illustrating thesame pattern length of doubled cloth as in Fig. 1, but with patternsthereon designed and positioned in accordance with therpresentinvention. Throughoutthese views like characters refer to like parts.

Refe ring tr said drawing in detail. 10 designa es the pattern of clothout of which the suit is to be cut, whether by the prior art'method ofFig. 1, 01' in accordance with the present in ventiou, as depicted inFig; {it The length of the pattern in the drawing Specification ofLetters Patent.

Patented Aug. 6. 1918. Seria1No.225.B76.

may be assumed to be three and one third (33,) yards and its widthtwenty-eight and three fourths (28:?) inches. In Figs. 1 and 5 the clothis represented folded lengthwise so as to lie double beneath thepatterns. Out of such a piece, a suit may be cut for a man five feetseven inches (5 ft. 7 in.) high and thirtyseven inch (37 in.) breastmeasure. It the suit be cut according to prior art methods the iattcrnparts may be cut and arranged as shown in Fig. 1; if out and a1- rangcdaccording to the present invention then the pattern parts would be cut.and arranged as shown in Fig. 5 and thus an extra pair of trousersgotten out of the same length and width of cloth. In the drawing theselvage edge is indicated by the dotted line 11.

Now in order to bring about the pattern design and arrangement of Fig.5, I modify the pattern parts of Fig. 1 slightly and then arrange themon the cloth as shown in Fig. 5. Thus the coat front 12 of Fig. 1 hasits shoulder-seam edge cut off along the dotted line 13. This changeproduces the new front 12' of Fig. 5. The coat back 14 of Fig. 1isenlarged along its shoulder seam edge by cutting "long the dottedlines 15. This change produces the new coat back 14". Thus what is cutoil the front is added to the back. This has the eii'eet of bringing theshoulder seam slightly forward, in the ease assumed not more than threecighths (ii) of an inch.

Similarly the old trousers front 16 is diluinished by cutting oh theinside seam edge near the crotch along the dotted line 17 and its waistline dimension increased by eutting the side seam edge near the waistline along the dotted lines 18. These changes in the trousers front 16produce the new trousers fronts l6 and 16'. In each of these patternsthe lines 20 and 21 are to be followed, one for the left leg and theother for the right, leg of each p'air. as usual. The trousers back 22of F ig. 1 has its side seam edge cutothnlong the dotted line Theadjacent V is also preferably narrowed by cutting along the dotted line24 but thisglatter is not necessary and may be omitted,

the line 23 being varied in position accord ingly, so as togive thecorrect waist measure. The inside seam edge near the crotch is alsoextended by cutting along the dotted lines 25. These changes in thetrousers backs produce the new backs 22' and 22 of Fir. 5, except thatit is necessary in brder $0 0btain the layout of Fig. 5 to out the back22' along the line 26 so as to accommodate the other parts. To providethe necessary material at this point the triangular piece 27 is cut outof the cloth at another point and added to the buck 22. This bringsextra pieces together in the crotch of one pair of trousers but leavesthe other pair Without extra pieces. This is the only place at which anextra piece is added to the old pattern parts to provide the new. Inthese changes of the trousers fronts and backs the side seam of eachpair is brought slightly backward, not more than one half (i) an inch inthe case assumed, the crotch seam is also brou ht slightly forward, notmore than five eight lis (g) of an inch in the case assumed, and onepair has crotch pieces added. I

The upper sleeve pattern 28 of Fig. l is diminished in width near thetop and boltom by cutting along the dotted lines 2 and 30. This changeproduces the new upper sleeve pattern. 28'. T o compensate for thediminishing of the upper sleeve pat tern. the lower sleeve pattern 31 isincreased in width at its top and bottom by cutting along the dottedlines 32 and 33. produces the new under sleeve 31. These changes in theupper and under sleeve patrns shift the rear or back seam slightly'rward at the top and bottom. In the case a sumed the shift at. the topis not more than e half an inch and that nt the bottom Jout threefourths('2) of an inch.

The vest back 34, shown in Fig. 4, is out out of other cloth than theparts shown in Figs. 1 and 5. hen out in the form shown in full lines inFig. 4 the vest back is reudy for use with the vest parts of Fig. 5).

The vest front 36 of Fig. l of the prior artdesign is to be replaced bytwo test. front sections 36 and 36'. These sections are shaped as shownin Fig. 5. Their configuration is determined by taking the prior vestfront 36, cutting it into two secti us by cutting generally in thedirection of the dotted lines 37 and (Fig. 2) and thus producing the twosections shown in full lines in Fig. 3. I

The line of cut between these sections may be varied considerably butthose illustrated in Fig. 3 illustruti the principle. By adding to thesesections as indicated by the dotted lines 39 and 40, the outline forcutting the 'front sections 36 and 36" is provided. In some instances itmay be necessary or desirable to shift the shoulder seam of the veStinthe same way the shoulder scum of thecoat is shifted. Bid. in the sizechosen for illustration, this is not necessary. W here the shoulder seamis thus shifted, as in certain larger sizes, the. back 34 is extended bycutting the cloth along the dotted lines end the front section isdiminished by cutting along the dotted line 41. In any This change caselhis shifting of the shoulder seam is usually not greutertlian a halfinch. If the user needs the cloth then he can shift. the seam. The coalfacing 42 is practically the some in both Figs. 1 and 5. The same istrue also of the pocket Hop 43 and upper collar 44. w

The coat front may he provided with one or more slits or V's 4:;according to the shup or fit required to be given the coat. Like wise inthe vest, the sections 36 and so" can he cut so as to give all theadvantages of one or more vs 46 heretofore commonly employed asillustrated on the fronts 36 of Figs. 1 and 2. It will also be notedthat the scum formed by sewing the sections so and 36" together will bepartially covered by the usual upper rest pocket Whose position isindicated in Fig. 2 by the dotted mes 47. In -these diagral'ns the line48 in the con! front shows the position of the side pocket and the line49 on the trousers fronls and harks shows the position of the stitclrlug whi -h is eomnmnly employed to give the fippklllilll fli o a hand,no separate hand being employed. Likewise the line 50 on the sleevesshows the edge'nt which the cloth is to be. turned up inside the sleeveto give it a finish. Similarly the line 51 at the trousers bottom showsthe edge at which cloth to he turned back so as to give ti sl ghtfacing. The lines 52 show the point at which the cloth is to be turnedup to form the end and the line 53 shows the point to which the top ofthe cuff comes.

The arrangement of the modified pattern parts upon the cloth so as toget the extra puir of trousers out of the same cloth is ('leurlyillustrated in Fig. 5. As there shown. the coat back 14 in one corner ofthe cloth with its top near the end f lhrcloth and its rear edgeadjacent to one edge of the folded cloth. The coat front 12" is placednext to the coat hack 14 and has its lower end near the end of the clothand its forward edge adjacent to the forward edge of the coat buck. Thecoat facing! 42 is positioned so that its lower end lies lo ward the endof the cloth and its forward edge lies adjacent to the rear edge of therout from 12. The top of the turning 42 extends slightly heyond lheupper end o t. the rout front. The trousers fronts 16' end 1"" arearranged hottom to bottom in line with each other and the coat hack 14'.They to the folded edgiof the cloth. 'lhenp-pen roller 44 lies betweenthe trousers fl'filllyl; H1 and 1c". The trousers harks 22. ilnd v l 22"are arranged top to top in line with each 22d center of the cloth is cutawqy at the crotch 1.20 are positioned with their front edges adjacent Qthetrousers backs 22 and the vest front section stitched together tionas shown and the triangular piece 27 which fill out this portion of thepattern is located more or less in the arm hole of the coat front 12.The upper sleeve 31' is positioned with its forward edge adjacent to thesalvage edge of the folded cloth and its'rear edge adjacent to the rearedges of and 22", being positioned between the crotch points. The vestfront section 36 is positioned between the coat facing 42 and the uppersleeve 3]. Its front edge lies adjacent to the rear edge of the trousersback 22'. The under sleeve 28 islocated in the corner of the clothdiagonally opposite the coat. back 14. Its rear edge lies adjacent tothe rear edge of the trousers back 22". The second vest sec tion 36"lies between the upper sleeve 31' and the under sleeve 28. The pocketflap 43 is located between the upper sleeve 31 It Is pointed out thatthe results attained by the modification of the pattern parts and thearrangement upon the cloth as herein disclosed is not to be had in thecase of every set of measurements when the size of the cloth as commonlypurchased by the tradeis taken into account. The results will berealized, however, within well defined limits.

The following table indicates the field in which the results describedare to be had.

Table.

Breast. Height. I Yards. 34 5 It. 7111]. 3; 28 in 35 u 23} u 36 n u 2 uas an. a in. a; 2 I

It will be noted that with the particular layout illustrated in F'i 5, Ihave also made provision for considera le variation in [ill-q ness ofmaterial so as toallow for fitting after the goods have been cut and theparts for a .try on. Some of these points may be indicated. At the point56,.there is extra material to allow for variain the fullness of thefront of the coat. At the points fii' material is available for lettingoutthc trou'sers waist more or less as may be required. Again, at thepoints 58, material is available for addition to the trousers backs 'toprov't le increased knee width; Again at point 59;, material isavailable for giving fullness to thefv'est.

front. At point'60, t s also, extra material available ,"fo of the coatfacing; is to: be psedfor'fittin the 'exac tf'll ruzskb loweclin bul-ting u. to incfude iiior Besides .Ife suchlexcess cloth e pattern arenot folthe. but is made so as attheirequired points. fqrxaincxtrafullness of tern parts when laid easing ;..the width fi iis way, ofcourse the cut at the points indicated above, I also have extra materialavailable at the point 54 adjacent to the lower end of the upper sleeve28 so that where desired the sleeve may be finished with the short slitwhich is at this point, the extra n1aterial being used for turning andfacing. Similarly extra material at the point 55 along the back edge ofthe coat back 14' allows the coat to be finished with a slitted tail,the material as before being available for the turn and for facing.

From these considerations it will be seen that I have succeeded ingetting a suit and an extra pair of trousers out of the cloth usuallyrequired for a suit, within certain limits, by but slightly modifyingprior dcs1gn while arranging the pattern parts upon the cloth in a newway and in a way which will allow for quite a variation in dimensions atthose points where such variations are most desirable.

What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent of the UnitedStates is:

1. The method of cutting a business man's suit and an extra pair oftrousers from a minimum length of cloth which consists (a) in modifyingthe pattern parts relative to prior art practice (1) by moving slightlyforward the shoulder seams of the coat, the sleeve back seams at the topand bottom, the trousers side seams and the trousers crotch seafns, bypiecing in the crotch the trousers backs of one pair, and (3) byreplacing the prior art vest front by a new vest front made in twosections, and then (6) cutting the material according to the modifiedputupon the cloth doubled along a central longitudinal line; as follows:a coathack its top near the end of the cloth and its rerr edge adjacent:to one edge of the cloth, a coat front next to said back with its lowerend near theend of the cloth and its forward edge adjacent the. forwardedge of said back, a coat facing with its lower end toward the-end of[the cloth and its forward edge .ad acentrto the rear edge of the coatfront,

the top of said facing extending slightly beyond the upper end of saidcoat front, a pairof trousers fronts b ttom to bottom in his with eachother and grid coat back with their front edges adjacent to one edge ofthecloth, a pair of trousers backs top to top in linaiwith-each otherandsaid coat front withtheir' front edges adjacent to the rear edgesofisaid trousers fronts, the trousers lies' nearest the center of thecloth being cut awayat thecrotch, a piece for filling out this cut awayportion positioned in the space left by thearni hole of said coat front,

an; upper part with its forward edge adiac'e'nt to the eclgcof the clothand its rear dge adjacent to the rear edges of said trousers hn lrsbetween the crotch points, a vest in one corner of the cloth with front;section between said rout facing and said upper sleeve part with itsfront edge adjacent to the rear edge of the said ndjnrent trousers back,on under sleeve part in the corner of the cloth diagonally opposite tosaid cont back with its rent edge adjucent to the rear edge of the saidadjacent trousers buck and n second rest front tion between said upperand under sleeve parts.

2. The method of cutting :1 business innnn suit and an extra pair oftrousers from in minimum length of (10th whiuh consists (a) in modifyingthe pattern pnrtt: relative to prior art practice (1) by moving slightlfgrwnrd the shoulder seams ot the cont, the sleeve bark semne at the topund bottom. the trousers side sean'is and tho trouser: crotch seams, (2)by piecing in the rrotrh the trousers backs of one pair. and (it) inreplacing the prior art vest front. by a new vest front, made in twosections and then (6) Cutting the ninterinl HCPUI'IilIItf to themodified pattern pnrts when lnid upon the cloth doubled along it centrallongitudinal line, on. follows: it rout llnt'lt in one. corner of thecloth with its top near the en dot the cloth and its rear edge:idjnt'ent to one edge of the cloth, a coat front next to said backwitlr its lower end near the end of the cloth and its forward edge:idjneent the forward edge of said bark, n cont fairing with its lowerend toward the end of the cloth and its forward edge adjacent to the.rear edge of the coat front. the top of said faring extending sli btlybeyond the upper end of said (out tront, :1 pair of trousers frontsbottom to bottom in line with with other and said rout bnrh with theirtront edges ndjm'entto one edge of the rloth, on upper rollnrintervening between said bottoms, :1 pair of trousers bucks top totop inline with each other and said cont front with their front edges adjacentto the rear edges of said trousers fronts, the trousers bat-k which liesnearest the (enter ot' the rloth being cut nwny at the (:YUl't'lhalder-e for filling out this eut away portion in the spxi'ce left, bythe armhole of said rout front, on upper sleeve'part with its forwardedge adjnrent to the edge of the rloth and its rear edge udjnt-entto therear edges of said trouser barks between the (I'Ott'll points, itrestvfront SW'tlOH between said cont. facing and said upper sleeve partwith its front edge :uljiu-ent to the rear edge of the said udjarent;trousers ban-k, :in under sleeve part; in the corner of the elothdiagonally opposite to saideont ba elr'with its rear edge udjurent totherein-"ed e of the staid adjacent. trousers brick, a second vest frontsee tion between said npner and under sleeve parts, and :1 pocket tlnploeuted between said upper sleeve part and the first mentioned vestfront section.

It. The method of rolling a business muns suit and an extra pnir ottrouurrs from a minimum length of cloth whirh tfillSl-"ilS (a) inmodit'ving the pattern port relative to prior art prnetire (1) by movingslightly t forward the shoulder :iezuns of the rout and rest, the sleevehack seams art the top and bottom, the trousers side seams: and thetrousers crotch sealin (2) by piecing in the rrotrh the trousers backsof one pair, and 76 (3) by replacing the iriorurt vrst front; by a newvest t'ront made in two sections, and then (b) t'ntting the nintrrinlnreorth ing to the modified pattern parts when lniti l upon the rlothdoubled alone n rntinl l w 80 pitndinnl linr. as follows it root both inone '(illlt! oi th rloth with it-= top i-2:21 iii." t'lHi ul thr :bdh mit il r: n wlpi- Htliltt'ltl, in one oclp o (it thr 'l l i lu'iil nrht toHtllll lh'l h nith lib lower t'ntt Inner tlull l 8 ot the rlo h nod ltitHWilhl rudiment the torwnrd rd e'e ot' Mtitl hurl- 7 n (Hit the inwith its toner ond towurd the 13nd o" th tl cloth and its: forward edgend iiu-ent to the rear edge of the rout trout, the top of 99 saidt'nring extending slightly beyond the upper end of mid rout front :1pair of trousers frontw bottom to bottom in line with enrh other andsaid cont heel: with their front. edges adjacent to one edge of thet-loth, an upper roller part intervening between said bottoms n pnir oftrousers lJiHltH top to top in line with enrh nlltt! and said rout frontwith thrir front rd 'es ntljnrent to the rent Plight: o1 said trouser.rontst. the trou rers bnrh Will-("ll lit-w iKt'tlRl' the (on tor of therloth beinp ru v away at the r-rotrh u piere for filling out this outawn portion positioned in the spore left by the arm holeg of said rootfront, an upper sleeve part; Willi/10f} its forward edge iuljarent tothe edge of the cloth and its rear edge :idjneent to the, rear edges ofsaid trousers barks; between the I erotrh points, a vest front sectionbetween 1 said rout: facing and said upper sleeve part 1 g with itsfront edge adjacent to the rear edge} of the, said. adjacent trousersbuck, an under" sleeve part in the corner of the cloth dingo; mtllyopposite to said coat bnelr withflit rear edge adjacent to the rear edgeof't'tie i: said adjarent trousers back, a second vest front sectionbetween said u )per and iin'd l sleeve parts, and a pocket ap located between said upper sleeve part tmdthe'firsfl I mentioned vest frontsection; l I """fg t l In testimony whereof I have hereunto I subscribedmy name this 80th day of M'areh,

JOHN W. BZABB.

